Ever closer to Imja.

Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Waking up the next morning to grey clouds and drizel, our high spirits  were definitely lower than the night before. But with the infectious  enthusiasm of Kamccha our Sherpa guide, a beautiful breakfast and a brisk 2 hour walk early in the morning by the time we got to the Sagarmartha Park gate even the prospect of a 800 metre climb in the afternoon seemed like the most logical, pleasant thing we could possibly think of doing.

Beautiful gorge with an outrageously high bridge - had to cross that..

The climb passed without much incident save for a constant drizel, ever decreasing oxygen and tiring legs, but that is not to say it wasn’t enjoyable. Just the sheer majesty of the surrounding mountains when glimpsed through the clouds, the might of the rivers, and challenge of the rough tracks made the walk fantasic and it was almost with a little sadness that we got into Namche bazaar, our overnight stop, a few hours ahead of time. A quick trip to the local boot maker to mend a troublesome boot and back to the guesthouse just in time to miss a huge downpour and our afternoon was complete and early night at 3800 metres and our first reacquaintance with real altitide. Tomorrow was to be an aclimatisation day with a quick 400 metre climb and the remainder of the day devoted to rest. And how we would appreciate it later on.

Namche Bazaar just before being enveloped in cloud

Even though the next morning was supposed to be a restful, we were woken early by Kamccha , with the refain of “the skies are clear”, get up we don’t have much time. So at 6.00 am. groggy from an altitude sleep, cold and slightly disoriented we scrambled( probably and exagerartion) out of bread and started our climb to the local viewing spot. Now at sea level this would literally be a ten minute walk up a short hill to get the blood flowing. Up here the first 100 metres until the blood really did get flowing and  get some oxygenwas agaony. The lungs were screaming, the legs were like lead and the mind was wondering what the hell I was doing out of bed. As with all things in the mountains though, if you take time they usally come good and after about 10 minutes the body had adapted and life seemed great again. Particularly with the view we were confronted with when we got to the top. Namche Bazaar is really the first place you can get  decent view of Everest from the Nepali side. There a few places lower but you are peering through trees and hoping for no clouds.

Into the mystical lands around Mt.Everest

When a life long dream is about to be filled, sleep the night before can be more than a little problematic. Add to that the hideously early departure and by the time we got to the airport we were dazed and confused but desperatley excited about going to the Khumbu region to see Everest and the Imja Glacier.

Getting on the plane -Harder than you might think.

The cause of Eri's fears

Our first challenge though was not altitude or cold or isolation. It was getting Eri onto the tiny aircraft that was going to take us to Lukla. As we rode in the bus across the tarmac, we went past progressively smaller Yeti Airline( I lovethat name) planes and with each passing machine Eri’s excitement turned more and more to fear. When the bus finallypulled up next to the little 16 seater it took more than a little convincing that getting out of the safe bus and into the not so safe plane was actually a great idea.

Bless her she overcame her fears and finally got in, fear painted all over her face. we were lucky enough to secure a left hand seat which afforded us the most magnificant views of the snow capped Himalaya once we got airborne. With Eri sat behind me ( with the most sweat soaked palms i have ever seen) we weavedour way through the ever increasing peaks, skimming over small settlements and almost glancing sheer cliff faces.

PM Brown highlights the importance of COP15 in Copenhagen

Here is an interesting article from the BBC. British PM Gordon Brown seems to the first world leader to really come out and say that Copenhagen is the last real chance to make a difference regards Climate Change.

Personally, I wonder if the politicians will be able to overcome the self interest that global politics inherently entails. Unfortunately, common sense is usually not the first human quality used in diplomacy. However if we are going to have any chance of getting a positive result maybe it’s time to put aside pessism and doubt and hope they can finally use their brains for the benefit of us all.

Read the article here

A view of nature from the back of an elephant

After a long lazy lunch and a few furtive looks at a dark monsoon sky, we jumped in the truck again and made our way to the elephant ride.

Life from the elephants back.

Again my conscience was itching, riding these graceful beasts just so we can have look around the jungle in many ways grates. That said, like we were told at the elephant sanctuary, if we don’t somehow monetize the elephants this way, poachers and criminals will do it in far more damaging ways. Mankind’s abilityto bring the beauty of nature down to solely a financial value really is a scourge on our species.

Our trusty steed- Still not entirely comfortable with it though.

First sighting of the Rhinos

Up close and personal with the backend of a Rhino

Red deer

Local buffalo union meeting

Anyway when we arrived we were immediately directed to the largest beast in the field. The girls were quick to note, that the fact that I was the fattest man in the room  allowed us to get this graceful giant to carry us around the jungle. The cheeky buggers should really have been grateful, because the lofty heights of the back of this animal gave us an unforgetable afternoon.

Setting off, the loping gait of the elephant took a little bit ot get used to. That said, we were soon taking no notice of the rocking and rolling and were peering keenly into the jungle trying to make up for the mornings disappointment. Jumping at every movement real or percieved, saddled  with the hope that we would see a great rhino, we were instead soon lolled into a comfortable daze that seemed almost impossible to break until we brushed through  a particularly tight break in the trees and were rewarded with the most magnificent veiw. Wallowing by a water hole were two beatiful but sadly endangered Asian Rhino. Calm, graceful, and unfazed by our presence, these ancient looking animals reminded me of a time when humans were part of nature and not dominating it. I couldn’t help but wonder if  we have dangerously overstepped the mark and should really revert back to a more sustainable  place in nature for the benefit of ourselves and everything else that eeks out a living on this planet. The fact that we could endanger the very existence of such fantastic beasts just for short term financial gain really seems all the more ridiculous when you see these magnificant animals up close.

The rest of the afternoon consisted of more sightings, river crossings, beautiful jungle vistas and a wonderful feeling of being at least for a short time we were a part of nature rather than dominating and being disconnected from it.

Back to Kathmandu

The next day it was with a certain sense of disappointment that we raced back to Kathmandu to fulfull a few mediaobligations for WWF and more importantly wish Amand a fond farewell.

A big THANK YOU to my little sis.

A big THANK YOU to my little sis.

After six weeks together at the start of September it was time for Amanda to head back to the real world. Job, boyfriend and house moving duties all calling her back. I just want to thank her for being such great company, imparting her extensive knowledge in film making and being a huge support to Eri and I, not only while on the road but before and after in a way that has been above and beyond the call of duty. I really appreciate it and am super proud of her riding success with us. Considering she really had no idea what she was getting herslf into and what her dodgy brother was going to ask of her. Thanks kiddo, you were great.

Chitwan – A whole new experience

After a fairly non eventful time in Manali and Chandigar, we returned  to Nepal.  After a brief stop in Lumbini ( the birth place of buddha) we spent a few days riding through the Terai region towards the world heritage listed Chitwan National park.

The ride itself was nice enough, with a backdrop of lush green rice paddies and the low Himalayas. The real joy began when finally arrived at the sleepy little town of Sauraha at the gateway to the park.

the girls relaxing after the 4 day ride to Chitwan

Exhausted, hot , smelling in dire need of a shower we spent our first night resting  before an early start the next day.

A surprisingly good canoe trip.

I will be honest, I wasn’t acutally that thrilled about the tours we had to join to get into the park. So it was with a small amount of trepidation that we jumped into the back of our lodge’s van to be driven to the river side for an early morning river cruise.

We duly piled into a dug out canoe and it wasn’t until we cast off that I got over my reservations and realised just how our location was. The fast flowing river quickly forced us around the first bend and almost immediately we were confronted with beautiful Kingfisher birds, Water Buffalo,  colourfully dressed locals, and within ten minutes our first crocadile. Our guide of course managed to spot animals ages before us, but on the whole it was one of the most relaxing 45 mins I have spent in a long, long time.

Early morning meeting with a croc

After reaching the end of our short river sojourn, we jumped out and started out on a little trek in search of rhino, tigers, deer and elephant. After an hour of poor David Attenborough impersonations and false sightings we had to accept the fact that only animal material we were going to find was steaming piles of fresh evidence but no live beasts.

Jungle breakfast - no animal sightings but delicious food

That said we had a fantastic picnic breakfast and managed to get an interesting insight into the effects climate change during an great little interview with our guide, Sanjib. ( You will be able to see it along with all our other interviews when we return to Tokyo and get them all edited. )

A surprisingly uncomfortable elephant farm.

We ended up at the Elephant Breeding site, which although mildly interesting, cute and probably necessary to maintain the Asian elephants population of Chitwan park, was a slightly uncomfortable place to be. Particularly after the freedom of walking through the jungle unfenced and unchained.

Chained Elephants - not nice!

On the whole it was a great little morning cruisingon the river, traipsing through the jungle and getting up face to face with some amazing creatures. It was the afternoon to come that was really wonderful.

More about that in the next post.

A morning with Everest

Just wanted to let people know that we wil be away in the Khumba region for the next few days and off line. Can’t wait toget further up the valley after waking up early this morning and being treated to the sight of the peak of MT. Everest.

Will post photos when we get back to Kathmandu next week. I cant tell you how beautiful this area is.

Never underestimate the Himalayas

Our next three days were a sage lesson in knowing your place in the world and never underestimating the Himalayas.

Tso Kar to Pang across the Morei Plains.

Our day leaving Tso Kar looked on paper to be an absolute doddle. All up about 45 km, mostly on gentle downhill slope and from what we had been told mostly blacktop. Oh how the arrogance of ignorance can bring you unstuck.

We were so confident that this was going to be an easy day that we didn’t get away till well after 9 after a leisurely amble up to the local Gompa, an overly large breakfast and a long chats with the WWF gang. We set off in high spirits and even though we had to battle through deep sand for the first two hours by the time we reached the highway we really thought that day was almost over. The road was black, the weather cool, the km marker telling us only 37 km to go. How could anything go wrong? Our false sense of security was futher hightened when we met a pair of french cyyclists going the other way who assured us that it was an easy run into Pang. Amazing how going the other way can make you oblivious to a horrendous, howling, headwind.

As midday came and went , it began to dawn on us that there were more and more roadworks on this road and the wind was picking up. After about 1, things went downhill fast. With ever km done the road got worse and worse, the skies started to darken and the wind began to howl.

What’s a sandstorm doing in the Himalayas?

It was about this time that we noticed the sky in the distance taking on a very peculiar shade of yellowy, grey.

Riding into a Sandstorm, not the easy day we thought

Not ten minutes later and we realised that a massive sandstorm was coming our way and there was no where we could go to get out of it. Its a strange thing to ride into a sandstorm. Firstly, even though we were pedalling for our lives , DOWNHILL, we were still only going about 3km an hour. At one stage i genuinely thought that Eri was in danger of being thrown from the bike or worse beacause the winds were so strong. Unfortunately my command of the English language is insufficient to truly convey what it was like but suffice to say none of us will forget that hour anytime soon.

Where’s the road?

Our salbrious tent hotel in Pang

Struggling across the Morei plains

Off the blacktop and onto the soft stuff, things just got worse.

Finally across the Morei plains – that was a tough old day.

Riding into a Sandstorm, not the easy day we thought

Coming out the other side of the sandstorm

should have taken notice of these sides much earlier

Sandstorm safely through, although quite shaken, our next little challenge on the Morei plains, was the apparent disappearance of anything resembling a usable road. It had seemed strange  that for an hour or more we had seen trucks of all sizes and shades diverting off the road and go screaming across the open plain, kicking up plumes of dust hundreds of metres long. In the interestof safety we had been sticking to the road but at about 3 in the afternoon the road finally ran out, the wind picked up again and the rain began.

It was decision time and after much discussion and a little bit of choosing new gods and praying to them, we ventured out onto the plains. At first the going was tough,  the ground was soft and getting softer with the rain, but about 1 km onto the plains were saved form the soft ground by bone crunching rutted tracks that we had to follow for the next 5 km. This was turning into one of those days, where you head goes down, you keep your own councel and you wonder what the hell you are doing out here. It took over 2 hours to cover the last 8 km’s on the Morei plain and when we finally got across, the freezing 5 km descent into the tent village of Pang was a blessed relief. Despite Amanda getting a puncture 100m from the finish line.

Our salbrious tent hotel in Pang

No ex-army parachute that had been converted into a makeshift tent had ever looked so good, no mice running around in the kitchen had never looked so welcoming and no dodgy 2 minute noddles had ever tasted so good.

Our easy little day had turned into an exhausting, at times frightening adventure, but at least offered a nice little primer to challenges of the up coming days.